There are always exceptions, but this wasn't one: a heart should be warmed in a place surrounded by pine forest, in the shade of a rockface and lit by Londunimaginable numbers of stars. Johnny, who is Janko, let me out of the car with a flourish and a bow, in his cloud of tinny hip-hop, and the smokers gathered round. This one is Pavol, this one Jakub, and these two are different variants on Michael. Matus gets out on the driver's side. One of the first questions is Why are your fingernails blue? I hadn't noticed, and tell them that perhaps they are far from my heart.
It is cold in rural Považšky Kraj, but children in two layers chat and boister as I shiver in my coat and hat. I am told it is the excitement of my arrival, though they seem like normal teenagers enjoying being up past their bedtime. Walking up the hill, my boots chew the ice in the tyre-furrows, and teenage boys hurl one another to the ground. Others ask 'Where from you?', 'Lives with dein mutter?' and so on. Matuš does a lot of translating.
From up the hill we look down on a small complex of buildings which house youth programmes in the summer holidays. For the last month, one of these has hosted an experimental school for nine boys who would otherwise be in the Slovak equivalent of English young offenders' institutes; this will carry on as a pilot until June, and hopefully become permanent (and involve a larger number of pupils) thereafter.
Some background: way, way back, between the Tescoes, I came across a man in a striped suit in a cage, and another handing out fliers. The flierer told me they are an organisation set up by a psychologist working to change the prison regime and for the rehabilitation of prisoners. I bought a little book about their work and philosophy, 'The Emperor is Naked', which basically says that if you treat prisoners badly, you create more problems and solve none. And interestingly, that the repressive and rehabilitative functions of prison should be separated, specifically with regard to the personnel involved in each. Their work in Slovakia is cut out. Anyway, this was all very inspiring, and when I came this time, I sent them a little email asking if they could use a volunteer. Turns out they have a new project for excluded school pupils, and were desperate to have an inspiring English teacher.
So at eight o'clock on Thursday, me and the older group sat down and did questions. It turned out they already knew the six honest serving men, so we did 'do', and went through the basics of life, likes and the like, but I still think they were bored. We moved on to hip-hop, taking the vocabulary and grammar from the chorus of The Message by Grandmaster Flash, which I think was too hard. Next week, Avril Lavigne, by the choice of the nicest kid in the group. I haven't yet decided what to do with the younger ones. Games are a good starting point, I expect.
It seems that music, short films, cartoons and so on are the way to go. They are interested in getting English, but not very open to or used to learning. Not teacher-at-board style, anyway. I know several teacher-type friends of mine may be reading this blog – if you have any advice, I will be grateful. The kids aren't misbehaved at all, but I'm not sure where their attention is.
Based on the biographies I have heard, these kids have nothing much to trust, hateful fathers and a woeful experience in schools (several have had their expulsion demanded by other kids' parents through petitions!). As I'm sure is the case in many places, the remedial system here has not dealt with them at all well, and several have already been in kid-prison. But on Friday, after teaching and before leaving, I sat on a big tree with my cup of horrible coffee and a lot of sunshine and thought: this place is a pure positive feeling. The only questionable aspect is the severe optimism at its foundation, and the only sad thoughts are that it might not work and that it will only reach a small number of those who need something similar.
It also felt good to hear second-hand their happiness to have me there. And it offers a contrast to the more abstract development work I am invovled in the rest of the time, as well as a nice adjunct to the overflowing conversations about language with flatmates and others. As far as you can tell things from eyes, we have there a lot of what the UN might call human capital. Perhaps because the alternative to being here is being in prison, they are not bad, and they are mostly pretty smart. The approach of the whole thing is to be on as equal a basis as possible with them, and I am not legally responsible for anyone (as, for example, their science teacher is). I have been warned not to get too emotionally attached, but I think there is not much chance of that: without a shared language (as good as my Slovak is, the emotional side is abysmal), I cannot offer them closeness, which is fine, as this is not my role. I am there to show them that English is spoken nicely, and to give them an idea of a world outside theirs.